Hello, my name is Helen Ruhlin, allow me to introduce myself. I'm a 22-year-old from Southern Maine, currently traveling throughout Europe with my sister. I'm a virgo, an introvert, a fan of drawing, coffee shops, Danish fashion, and a good breakfast sandwich.
I mention this brief introduction not because I think you've all forgotten who I am, but rather because it's quite possible you may not recognize me after my lengthy spell in Italy. In short, I haven't been missing any Italian meals and at the rate I'm going, I may or may not be a happy victim of the "Florence 15."
While Florence, or Firenze rather, is known for a laundry list of gorgeous artistic and cultural attractions––there's the Duomo, the Medici palace, endless historical art galleries, museums of every subject, churches galore, and the world's favorite hunk of marble: David––but it's also home to some of the globe's most sought after cuisine. To kick it off, let's begin with the often understated meal of breakfast... because something's gotta fuel those early-morning hikes up to the top of the Duomo right?
Since the Italian espresso game is both off the charts and an all-day affair––it deserves its own section separate from the morning cibo, or food, that accompanies it.
Starting with the basics, we have good ol' espresso which I promise you'll become a connoisseur of, even if you "hate black coffee." Plus half of the experience of getting an espresso is ordering and consuming it which is almost always done while standing at the café bar and often taken alongside a bit of sugar or a shot of still water. Cappucinos hold a special place in my soul, and I can wholeheartedly confirm that Italians do them best. Made with espresso and equal parts steamed and frothed milk, I'd say yes to these addicting creamy cups of warm goodness at literally any time of day (though they are technically only meant to be enjoyed as pre-afternoon beverages).
At an authentic spot, these should only run you around 1.20 euros, but some cafés near the more touristed plazas will charge upwards of four euros––so always scope out the menu in advance, and more importantly the prices. There's an extensive list of coffee-based drinks worthy of trying in Firenze: macchiatos, lattes, iced coffees, and a personal favorite, affogato (espresso with a scoop of gelato), but in my opinion, it's always best to stick to the classics when it comes to a solid cup of Joe.
Now I think too many people are quick to think of pasta, pizza, and various focaccia-based sandwiches when it comes to Italian food, but Italy has TONS of delicious pastries to devour at colazione (breakfast) too. My top three sweet treats have to go to croissants, babá con crema, and a classic cannoli.
The French may lay claim to croissants, also known as cornettos here, but the bakeries in Firenze know their shit when it comes to buttery layers of flaky pastry too. With so many fillings like pistachio, Nutella, cream, and fresh jam to choose from––you seriously can't go wrong. Babá con crema is a new one for me. It's essentially a cake-like sweet bun, soaked in liqueur (usually limoncello, rum, or amaretto), then cut in half and filled with fresh whipped cream or custard. These are the moistest, spongiest, most delectable spheres of joy I might've ever tasted and I'd be lying if I said I didn't lick every last crumb from my fork and plate after trying it.
Arguably one that falls more under a dessert category, the cannoli is probably trademarked by Sicily, but Firenze certainly deserves a hearty mention. This one's certainly nothing new for any of you, particularly those who are regulars at Krista's (nothing says working a double like piping some chocolate chip cannoli filling onto a spoon and topping it with chocolate sauce for a mid-shift pick-me-up), but they truly are just that much better in the Mediterranean. Whether it's placebo effect or the way they're served on cute little napkins with cute little forks atop cute little plates––cannolis are not to be missed in Firenze, or anywhere in Italy really.
Now lunch is where you really get to branch off down a few different savory paths to hunger satiation. I'll save pizza for a later blog as I move down towards southern Italy, but let's take a moment to appreciate true paninis. Now in the states, when we think of a panini, we typically conjure up an image of a fancy carnivorous grilled cheese. Artisanal white bread, complete with the dark lines from a proper press, maybe some upscale spreads and foreign cold cuts? For just a moment, put all of those preconceived notions to the side because panini means something different in Firenze.
Ordered from tiny shops found on every side street, you'll rarely find a great place that sells these for dine-in service––it's a street food takeaway staple. First you have the bread, which is always on house-made focaccia. It's crispy on the outside, sprinkled with herbs and salt, and soft on the inside with the perfect proportion of air pockets to doughy segments. Then comes the filling which is selected from a pre-made menu of age-old combinations with some of Italy's finest meats like spicy salami, prosciutto, mortadella, roast beef, ham, pig belly, and so much more. Cheese is must on these and the options are once again infinite. From mozzarella to pecorino to brie, gorgonzola, and ricotta, a panini isn't complete without a slice or seven. Vegetables are pretty standard for Italian produce: tomatoes, basil, spinach, eggplant, peppers––the works. Finally comes the spread which can range from a fresh pesto to an indulgent truffle cream, hot sauce, nduja sauce, and everything in between. Some are served hot (which I prefer to really get that melty cheese/toasty bread combo) and others are perfect as is, but deliciousness is guaranteed regardless of temperature.
Last but most absolutely, definitely, on no planet, least, comes the sweet sweet meal we've all been waiting for: cena. If there's one thing we owe Italians an unnumbered sum for, it's dinner, and if we're getting real, pasta. Italy has always been my favored region for food (and most Americans to be fair, I mean there's a reason we flock to Olive Garden for unlimited soup, salad, breadsticks, and triple-serving-sized alfredo).
While I don't believe you can have a bad plate of pasta anywhere throughout the country, it is important to note that each region and city has a dish they do best. For instance, Bologna, which we visited last week, is known for tagliatelle alla bolognese (shocker) and tortellini (little meat-filled bellybutton shaped pasta balls). Firenze however is surprisingly well known for pasta with a wild boar ragu sauce. On our first night here I opted for the famed ragu tossed with pici––imagine a thicker version of spaghetti. In a word: incredible. I don't think I've very had boar before but I don't know if I can go back because it was that good, plus the pici itself has become a new treasured carb. Good news for vegetarians, Firenze is also known for their pasta dishes that incorporate truffles, usually exercised through truffle cream sauces or straight-up pasta tossed in truffle oil and porcini mushrooms.
Of course, not every meal has to fall under "local specialty." During my stay in Firenze, I had some mouthwatering carbonara and a heaping pile life-changing gnocchi that was literally baked in cheese and truffle oil. Although pasta dishes, AKA primi piatti, are enough to fill me each evening, those looking for a more standard meal of meat, vegetable, and starch should order from the secondi part of the menu (or in the word's of our favorite tortilla commercial "porque no los dos?").
Okay so I might've lied before about dinner being the last topic, but in my defense pasta gets the fingertips excited. A day in Italy simply is not complete without a cup of gelato (which yes deserves its own paragraph), and more specifically a cup of at least two flavors. I'm not saying you have to eat it after dinner, but you do kind of have to eat it everyday here. With gelaterias boasting "100-year-old recipes" down every backstreet and alleyway known to man, it's impossible not to be swayed by the colorful fluffy frozen cream in each storefront window. And this is coming from someone who eats ice cream just about every day throughout the Maine summer.
The beautiful thing about gelato in Firenze is how cheap it is. Two to three euros will buy you two sizable scoops of any flavor combo you could dream up. Some OG classic flavors include stracciatella (the Italian version of vanilla chocolate chip), pistachio, hazelnut, crema (the creamier, eggier, better cousin of vanilla), dark chocolate, salted caramel, sour cherry, and various fruity sorbettos. I think my favorite flavor duo of the week was ciocolatto azteco, a spicy dark chocolate, paired with a ciocolatta Bianca cannella, a cinnamon white chocolate. The two satisfied every last one of my spicy/sweet/rich/airy frozen dessert fantasies.
So at this point, if I haven't convinced you to begin researching one-way flights to Florence, I've done something wrong. If you can't make it to this stunning capital that combines Europe's finest art, culture, and cuisine, do yourself a favor and try bringing a bit of the Italian spirit to you. Splurge for the Talenti gelato on your next grocery run, give that expired box of Barilla a break and try making pasta from scratch for a change, hit your local art museum, or merely throw on an Italian oldies Spotify playlist while cooking dinner. Regardless of where we're all at mentally, physically, and geographically, there's one thing we can agree on and that's that Italians really do it best. Or at least pasta for that matter.
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